Nobody's answered so far... it looks like not many people frequent this site. Anyway, I'll add some potential candidates, or close-to-being-candidates, in this answer for now:

Might be relevant:

- [LEMON][1] , or **L**ibrary for **E**fficient **M**odeling and **O**ptimization in **N**etworks - A "C++ template library providing efficient implementations of common data structures and algorithms with focus on combinatorial optimization tasks connected mainly with graphs and networks." Here's a [2010 presentation][2] describing LEMON.
- [Goblin][3] - "A tool chain for handling graphs", including code for graph-related combinatorial optimization algorithms; laying out graphs in space (e.g. layered, orthogonal), graph composition (?), serialization to/from files, vertex and edge attributes and incidence structures. _Probably_ not C++11ish nor involving templates too much.
- [SNAP][4] - The **S**tanford **N**etwork **A**nalysis **P**latform - on one hand, seems to be pretty focused on a specific application; on the other hand, it might have a pretty-much complete graph representation and manipulation API. There's also a hint it might be based on another, lower-level, graph library.
- [NGraph][5] - A super-simple, single 23 KiB .hpp file, graph library.

Not relevant / not quite relevant:

- [LEDA][6] - A  part of a larger codebase of combinatorial algorithms and data structures of the same name. This is commercial software, and even the free edition is closed-source (you can - gasp - buy the source from them). No thank you.
- [OGDF][7] - **O**pen **G**raph **D**rawing **F**ramework - Seems to be concerned more with layout, drawing of graphs on a plane. Claims to be an FOSS substitute for LEDA.
- [igraph][8] - A C (as in: not C++) graph library created for use in network analysis. It has some [unstable-API C++ bindings][9] named igraphpp.
- [NoCycle][10] - A library for DAG representation. It uses a compact (?) reprsentation of an adjacency map. Probably too different than what I need, and I don't think I "buy" the hype about its representation. 
- [libcgraph][11] - Part of the [GraphViz][12] graph layout project/toolkit. Note there's also a component named libgraph in there - not sure which uses which.

See also the following StackOverflow questions:

- [Use a Graph Library/Node Network Library or Write My Own?][13]
- [Which C++ graph library should I use?][14]


  [1]: http://lemon.cs.elte.hu/trac/lemon/
  [2]: http://lemon.cs.elte.hu/pub/doc/lemon-intro-presentation.pdf
  [3]: http://goblin2.sourceforge.net/
  [4]: http://snap.stanford.edu/snap/index.html
  [5]: http://math.nist.gov/~RPozo/ngraph/ngraph_index.html
  [6]: http://www.algorithmic-solutions.com/leda/ledak/index.htm
  [7]: http://www.ogdf.net/ogdf.php?id=
  [8]: https://github.com/igraph/igraph
  [9]: https://github.com/ntamas/igraphpp
  [10]: http://nocycle.hostilefork.com/
  [11]: http://graphviz.org/pdf/cgraph.3.pdf
  [12]: http://graphviz.org/
  [13]: http://stackoverflow.com/questions/1499878/use-a-graph-library-node-network-library-or-write-my-own
  [14]: http://stackoverflow.com/questions/2751826/which-c-graph-library-should-i-use