I'm looking for a minimal PDF viewer similar to Sumatra PDF for Windows.
- Quick start-up time
- No interface clutter
- Supports bookmarks
- Allows collapsing/expanding all bookmarks (with a single click, not by clicking each one individually)
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I can highly recommend PDF-XChange Viewer.
It is nothing short of superb. It has quick start-up time, a completely customizable user interface (as much or as little clutter as you like), supports bookmarks, and allows collapsing/expanding of bookmarks.
It also happens to be gratis (free of cost), totally portable, and of exceptionally high quality. It is not open-source.
As I'm not sure for what platform you are asking, for now I can only give you the advise to take a look at http://pdfreaders.org/:
It's a list of FLOSS PDF readers for all platforms; and most of them are really lightweight and quick with all basic functions.
If you are looking for only free (not open source) readers I can recommend:
They all got a huge amount of functions and therefore they are not so lightweight as nearly all of http://pdfreaders.org/, but still lighter than the Adobe reader! ;-)
I use evince for Microsoft Windows these days.